Travel tips

Like the rest of Spain, the Balearic island of Mallorca observes an extended festive season which begins in early December and reaches a series of climaxes over the 12 days of Christmas. It’s a period of joy and celebration when old traditions blend harmoniously with more recent introductions, and it really is all about the family.

In just about every town and village in Mallorca the lights and other street decorations start things off at the beginning of December, the shops put on their festive faces, and beautiful nativity displays appear in offices, shops, homes and churches. Some of these displays are very large and ornate, and some are very old. The extensive display in the Palma Town Hall in Plaça Cort reflects island life through handmade figures and artifacts. You can create your own nativity scene with selections from the Christmas markets which appear everywhere. The Christmas tree is a fairly recent addition to the Mallorcan Christmas and has become a fairly common sight in homes and the bigger stores.

It’s a great time for strolling around, enjoying the sights and sounds, soaking up the atmosphere, and perhaps doing a spot of shopping. There’s a great variety of goods on offer, the Christmas rush is far less frenetic and exhausting than most other places and there are dozens of cafes and restaurants offering every type of sustenance. On the streets, you’ll also find informal stalls selling roast chestnuts and freshly cooked bunyols (a sort of mini doughnut without the hole – delicious, but probably fattening!) to keep you going and warm your hands while you enjoy the street music and entertainers.

The 12 days of Christmas begins with midnight mass on Christmas Eve, during which one of the main symbols of Mallorcan tradition and culture, the song of the Sibyl, is performed. The song dates back to around the 10th century and prophesies the arrival of the Redeemer and the Last Judgement. It’s normally performed by a single singer, dressed in fine robes and carrying a sword, and it has the oldest Gregorian melody known in Europe. Christmas in Mallorca is in itself very important, and families gather together to share typical dishes and traditional fare – only recently has the practice of giving gifts on Christmas Day infiltrated Mallorca, probably due to marketing pressures. Although it’s not a religious holiday, the day after Christmas is also given over to family, and reunions with relatives who perhaps live a little further away.

There’s a bit of a breather until 31st December when Palma celebrates the Christian conquest of the city by King James I in 1229. There’s a whole programme of colorful religious and secular events beginning with the raising of the standards in Plaça Cort, and ending with a cavalcade performed by the horses and riders of the Cofradia Balear de Cavallers de Sant Jordi.

It’s round about now that the kids, who were already having the time of their lives, start to get really excited about the imminent arrival of the Three Kings, who are bringing all the festive gifts. The Kings, Melchor, Gasper and Balthazar – rather like Santa Claus – visit every child on Mallorca on the night of 5 January, so for once, an early night is guaranteed. In many places, the Kings send their pages ahead a few days in advance to alert everyone, and the Kings themselves arrive during the day and parade through the streets in colourful processions, some of which have traditions going back hundreds of years. Hordes of kids scramble for the sweets thrown by the Kings and their pages, and gasp at the fireworks.

At last it’s all over and everything gets back to normal, at least until the fiesta, fires and fireworks for Saint Anthony on 16 and 17 January – but that’s another story.

Andrew Regan writes for a digital marketing agency. This article has been commissioned by a client of said agency. This article is not designed to promote, but should be considered professional content.

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